Whatever variety of pseudo-Muggle Menzies you choose, you can be sure that this conifer plant will take root on any site, because the representatives of the genus are extremely hardy, ready to put up with a long absence of sunlight and unsuitable neighbors. Seed germination is maintained up to about ten years, and cuttings root almost completely.
Pseudo-hull (Pseudotsuga) belongs to the Pine family (Pinaceae). The genus unites from 7 to 18 species found in North America and East Asia. Such serious disagreements among botanists regarding the number of existing species are associated with a large number of natural species.
In this article you can read the description of the varieties of Menzies pseudo-lecus and get tips on caring for this coniferous plant.
Description of the Pseudotsuga Menzies Varieties (pseudotsuga menziesii)
Most of the species of the genus are majestic, sometimes huge evergreen trees, similar to fir trees and spruce with their conical shape of the crown and the branches, horizontally extending from the trunk, gathered in tiered whorls. The young shoots of the pseudo-lectern are almost smooth, with ovate leafy pads formed after the needles fall.
Needles needle, thin, flattened. Located in a two-row spiral. Cones are oblong, on a short scape, drooping, not disintegrating. Ripen in the first year. Most species are not frost resistant.
Psevdotsuga Menzies - extremely effective and hardy plant. Used in the design of gardens similar to spruce and fir: for a solitary planting, to create groups and small groves, to form alleys. When describing pevdotsugi, it is worth noting that they are unsuitable for cutting, more compote copies can be formed only by breaking out the central buds of the lateral shoots in the fall or early spring and shortening the growing shoots in the summer.
Psevdotsuga Menzies (pseudotsuga menziesii) or Douglas - This is the only enduring species of the genus. Forms huge forests along the entire Pacific coast from British Columbia to California, Montana, Colorado, Texas and New Mexico.
As seen in the photo, the pseudo-leopard is a powerful, beautiful evergreen tree, reaching a height of 100 m with a trunk thickness of up to 4 m:
Externally, it resembles a large fir. The crown is conical. The branches on the young trees are raised, on the old - horizontal. Young shoots are bare, first orange-red, later - red-brown. The bark is brownish-gray, in young trees it is smooth, in old trees it is tuberculate and deeply wrinkled. Needles are dark gray-green, needle-like, flattened, straight, 2-3 cm long. Hanging cones, ovoid, 5-10 cm long. Flakes bent. Seeds ripen in the first year. It has more 10 species species and many varietal forms, including multi-stemmed, compact, with gray and gray green needles. Unfortunately, varietal forms of Menzies pseudo-lepus are extremely rare in our gardens, which is probably due to their external similarity with similar varieties of spruce and fir. At the same time, both natural and varietal varieties are not only extremely cold-resistant, but also do not suffer from the spring sun.
Recommended varieties psevdotsugi Menzies:
Pseudotsuga menziesii Baby Blue, Dwarf variety psevdotsugi Menzies. Round-oval shape, Blue needles, Annual gains 10-12cm, Fully frost-resistant.
Pseudotsuga menziesii Bila Lhota. Dwarf variety of Menzies psevdotsugi, Rounded oval shape. Often mnogovorhechnaya. Blue needles. Annual increments 10-12 cm, Fully frost-resistant.
Pseudotsuga menziesii Densa. Dwarf variety of Menzies psevdotsugi, Rounded oval shape. Blue needles, Annual increments 10-12 cm, Fully frost-resistant.
Pseudotsuga menziesii fletcheri. Dwarf variety of Menzies pseudo-leopard, Round-pillow, prostrate with age, longline form. The needles are gray-green, soft. Annual gains 8-12cm, Fully frost-resistant,
Pseudotsuga menziesii Green Fairy. Pseudo-topsugi Menzies mini-variety, Round shape, Needles dark green, Annual increments within 5-7, see Fully frost-resistant.
Pseudotsuga menziesii Serpentine. Middle grade pseudo-leopard Menzies. Weeping form. Leading shoots, like auxiliary branches, twisted, rather chaotically, without fixation, develop in a horizontal direction. Annual increments over 20-25, see Fully frost-resistant.
Pseudotsuga menziesii var. caesa. Large-size variety of Menzies pseudo-leopard. Oval shape. Blue needles. Annual increments 25-30 cm, Completely! frost hardy
These photos show the best varieties of Menzies pseudo-tosugi:
Care when growing Menzies pseudo
Menzies's pseudo-leopard is a light-loving, but shady-tolerant plant. In the thickened landings, it is poorly decorative and forms a beautiful symmetrical crown only in open places.
He gives preference to fertile subacid loam, but quite successfully develops on loose sandy soil.
Adult specimens do not need supplements. Young plants can be fed in the spring after melting snow on wet ground with a complex or combined mineral fertilizer of weakened concentration.
When caring for pseudo-tosuga, transplant the plant either in the spring before bud break or in the fall. Deepening of the root collar is undesirable. Plants with actively growing shoots root poorly. Young specimens endure transplantation easily, large ones can be transplanted only after preliminary preparation of the root ball. After transplantation, abundant watering is necessary, and in the case of spring transplantation, in addition, the plant must also be sprayed until it is rooted.
When growing psevdotsugi remember that this plant is moisture-loving, but does not tolerate stagnant groundwater. Adults, well-developed specimens are exceptionally drought-resistant.
The frost resistance of Menzies's pseudo-leopard is high, so no shelter is required for the winter. Varietal multilateral specimens with a dense crown before winter, it is desirable to slightly pull the wire or twine - this preventive measure will keep them from "breaking" by heavy wet snow. In the spring, after the harsh freezing winters, abundant watering is recommended to thaw the soil more quickly.
Reproduction of pseudo-atsugi by seeds and cuttings
Propagation of pseudo-lecus is done by seeds and cuttings
Seed reproduction. When stored in warm seed germination is lost after a year, when kept in a sealed container at low positive temperatures, it remains at least 10 years. Seeds that have fallen from ripened cones are capable of immediate germination. Seeds with hardened covers have a resting embryo, for the awakening of which a brief period of even low temperatures is necessary.
The easiest way of sprouting is podzimny sowing in a ridge to a depth of 1,5-2, see mulching with loose earth to a height of 1-1,5. In spring, after germination, the plants will open out or leave on the ridge until autumn or next spring.
Good results are obtained by snowing - sowing seeds in boxes in autumn or winter, followed by removal under snow until spring.
Another way to awaken a “sleeping” seed embryo is cold stratification for 1-3 months at a constant temperature of + 3 + 5 ° С and an even moderate moisture level of the substrate.
Stratified seeds are sown in boxes or bowls and exposed to light at 18 + 23 ° C for germination. Shoots contain in the light, but not in direct sunlight and moderately watered. Upon the onset of heat, they are taken out into the garden and, after quenching (gradual training to the sun and fresh air), are planted in a ridge.
For breeding varieties using vaccinations and grafting.
Cuttings. Cuttings are rooted relatively well only from young varietal plants, even better - cuttings taken from plants with a compact densely branched crown. Cuttings from old wild-type specimens root poorly.
It is best to root the cuttings in a specially prepared, well-drained ridge, on which a frame covered with film is installed (tunnel greenhouse), or in a shaded greenhouse with high humidity and temperature controlled in the interval + 15 ... + 25 ᵒC You can root the cuttings directly in ground ridge or in boxes.
Both ridges and boxes are filled with loose, well-aerated substrate. It is based on large washed sand with possible additions of perlite, vermiculite, top sour peat or finely chopped sifted coniferous bark.
The best time for grafting is spring before the beginning or at the very beginning of the awakening of the kidneys. When summer grafting of hardened young growths, the cuttings do not have time to form roots and can freeze in winter.
In the spring for cutting cuttings take shoots growth last year, in the summer - the shoots of the current year after the hardening of young growths. Best of all, short side twigs, torn from the main branch with a piece of old wood.
Cut cuttings are fixed in the substrate at an angle of 60-70 degrees, keeping the same orientation of the cuttings, - they can not be turned upside down with the back side of the twigs.
High humidity of the air, moderate humidity of a clean, loose substrate, even room temperature and sufficient diffused light are the key to success in grafting. The use of stimulants gives good results, but only in the case of perfect execution of instructions attached to the preparations.
The optimum temperature for rooting is + 20 ... + 23 ° C, but during spring cutting, until the buds start to bloom, it is necessary to maintain a lower temperature + 15 ... + 18 ° С and only then raise it to + 20 ... + 23 ° s Particular attention should be paid to the moisture content of the substrate - it should never be excessively wet.
Well-established plants overwinter without shelter. Weakly rooted or live unrooted cuttings can overwinter with air-dry shelter. Cuttings, rooted not in the ground, but in boxes, are driven into the ground along with the boxes and covered or kept in bright cold greenhouses or rooms until spring.