Keeping of

From the correct pruning of roses depends not only the beauty of their flowering, but also the health of the bush, as well as the duration of its life. Of course, in the old parks nobody has cut these plants for decades, and they feel pretty good, but these matted thickets look completely unaesthetic. Yes, and places in most private gardens are not so many, so without pruning roses can not do.

Experienced gardeners know that pruning small garden rose bushes - the case is relatively easy, but working with larger specimens is not a pleasant occupation. Thorns cling and scratch, long shoots intertwined so that pulling them apart is very difficult, and some of them can not be, at all, with what force they can not pull. It is known that there are garden roses that have never been touched by either a knife or a shears.

But even in natural conditions, a rose is subjected to “natural” pruning: the caterpillars eat the leaves and the tops of the shoots, roes feed on soft stems, making it impossible for the pink bush to bloom. Different animals eat and damage shoots, and sometimes the plant dies as a result of a forest fire. However, a garden is a creation of man, and it must conform to his ideas, no matter what they are in each individual case. For a rose, this means that she will not have to grow, sneaking through the impenetrable jungle of rotten bushes infected diseases and infested with pests.

On the contrary, in the garden from these plants expect intensive flowering and compliance with certain standards of beauty. Therefore, you simply must care for crops. In addition, garden roses in a flower garden have little in common with wild-growing related species.

About when it is better and how to properly cut the roses in the garden, you will receive detailed information in this material.

Do I need to cut the roses and when is it better to do?

Naturally, overly diligent pruning will not lead to anything good. It is necessary to cut the roses, but this should not become an end in itself. Nobody needs pruning by itself. It makes sense only in conjunction with a specific purpose. For this reason, roses should be cut at different times and in different ways.

So, when do you need to cut the roses to meet all the conditions? Timing when you need to take a pruner or hacksaw:

  • RџSЂRё planting roses. Remove damaged shoots and roots, so that the plant is easier to stick to the new place.
  • Stimulation of the growth of new shoots in order to form the maximum possible number of new flowers. Old and dead woody stems should not interfere with the growth of new, fresh shoots.
  • Prevention or prevention of disease, exposure to pests.
  • If you want to influence the flowering period or to achieve a certain form of growth.
  • If the rose grows unevenly or in case of damage to the plant: a break or the effect of frost. Regulatory pruning will help you bring the plant into the appropriate shape and ensure its health.
  • Formation of root shoots on grafted rootstock during the growing season. Root growth to be removed.
  • If you need roses on section.
  • If the garden is not enough space.
  • If you purchased a garden, for which for a long time did not care. Perhaps there are growing roses that have not been cut for many years, and you want to return them to their former aristocracy.

So, no one has any doubts about whether to cut the roses. The optimal time for pruning roses cannot be determined by the calendar. On the one hand, it is necessary to cut off at a strictly defined time, on the other hand, external factors can prompt the ideal moment. Fortunately, nature offers many options.

When deciding individually when to cut the roses, it should be remembered that this is done not at the final stage of the plant’s life, but at its beginning. Pruning stimulates further planned plant development. Crop roses in spring can be in early March or even in mid-April. In any case, before cutting the garden rose, the moment should be chosen in such a way as to protect the plant from possible severe frosts. It is because of them that roses often die, especially if they were cut too late last fall.

If the weather after pruning is warm, it will provoke an active growth of fresh shoots. And if frost hits, then active fresh shoots, like the plant itself, may die.

But the cause of the death or damage to the plant is not its poor frost resistance, but the untimely pruning.

To cut the roses correctly, as advised by experienced gardeners, to remove the old inflorescences and root shoots will have to continuously. The timely removal of old inflorescences provokes the earliest appearance of new ones.

If wild shoots are cut or cut in time, the plant will not suffer much and will not spend extra energy on restoring health.

And how to cut garden roses once blooming varieties? In this case, it is recommended to wait for the completion of the flowering period. So you can create the conditions for the fresh main shoots to develop in the next year in the best way. A densely leafy plant is more difficult to cut, so these specimens are rarely cut.

When pruning the cut flowers, you will have to be observant and wait for the moment when the rose in the vase reaches its peak of development and resort to some advice so that it stays as long as possible while maintaining freshness.

Then you can familiarize yourself with the rules for pruning roses for beginners, watch a video and see how this important agricultural practice is implemented.

Rules for pruning roses for beginners: growth stimulation (with video)

The plant always reacts in a certain way to pruning with shears or a hacksaw. Therefore, to trim the rose bushes, as practice shows, you need to consciously and purposefully. Pruning disturbs the balance of the water and nutrient supply system of the plant. After pruning, the balance between the root volume and the number of above-ground shoots changes. The plant takes time to adjust to the change. After pruning the kidney, previously located in the center or at the base of the shoot - the so-called axillary buds - are at its top.

Studying the rules of pruning roses, beginning gardeners should remember that stimulating the growth of the tips of the shoots first of all accelerates the development of axillary buds. And the development of the kidneys, located below, is inhibited. They may also be at rest.

Support for this state is carried out by inhibitors, which are formed on the top and go down.

As you can see in the photo, after trimming the shoots of roses, the buds that are on top begin to develop:

In most cases, this impulse concerns not only the kidneys at the very top, but also those that are lower. In nurseries, specialists regularly remove the tops of the shoots in order to grow strong plants with as many shoots as possible. Without such treatment, many varieties would give only one flowering sprout that grew at the site of grafting. The younger the pruned shoot, the sooner the buds that were previously located below will germinate and thus compensate for the loss of the plant.

However, inhibitors may continue to inhibit the growth of fresh shoots from the upper buds. In addition, these substances are formed in the leaves, in the sinus which are buds. This problem is solved: remove such leaves immediately after pruning. Thus, you will accelerate the growth of fresh shoots.

Note that the growth rate of fresh shoots depends on the location of the bud: the farther the sleeping buds from the top, the slower the fresh shoots grow.

Watch a video of pruning roses for beginners to better understand how this agrotechnical technique is performed:

In the next section of the article, you will be able to look at the photos and get acquainted with the description of the trimming of roses, depending on the place where these plants are planted.

How to do pruning roses, depending on the place of growth

Rules for pruning roses also depend on the location of growth. For example, climatic conditions play an important role. The marine climate affects the development of plants differently than continental. Growing conditions in the vicinity of Lake Constance are not at all the same as, for example, at the foot of the Ore Mountains. In areas where severe frosts are common, one must constantly make sure that the plants do not freeze. Methods for pruning roses in areas where the last severe frosts occur in February are different from those where the arrival of cold weather in April does not surprise anyone.

Conditions may be different even within the same garden. Some plants get the optimum amount of sunlight, others are forced to survive in the shade of a house or neighboring plants. Naturally, the latter will produce fewer thin shoots, which should be trimmed shorter to achieve more intensive growth. The structure and type of soil also strongly affect the development of Rosaceae: the soil may contain a high concentration of humus, be too wet or rich in nutrients, as well as poor, such as sandy soil.

The place of growth determines the purpose of the plant and dictates how to cut roses. A winding rose on the wall of a house needs more thorough care than the one that winds along the trunk of a tree. And not only because it is more difficult to care for a rose on a tree.

In the end, the plant's resistance to diseases and pests depends on the place of growth.

In the event of this or that misfortune the victim can be helped. To do this, take measures and correctly, timely cut off the affected parts of the plant, thereby preventing the spread of infection.

This photo shows how to cut roses, depending on the location of bushes:

The relationship between pruning and dressing roses

“What is the connection between dressing and trimming?” You ask. And the answer lies on the surface.

Never forget that nature is not content with the simple principle of "yes-no." Many factors act together, complementing each other. One of these factors is fertilizing, or supplying the plant with enough nutrients. After pruning, we expect the rapid formation of healthy fresh shoots. To do this, the plant needs a whole range of appropriate nutrients. A beginner amateur gardener expects rapid growth immediately after planting, which is very imprudent.

First, the roots must be formed, which can provide intensive growth of shoots. If the soil is well prepared, top dressing is optional. Rather, it will inhibit growth, as top dressing increases the salt concentration in the soil.

This negatively affects the water supply of the plant. In addition, the young rose is unlikely to need a rich set of nutrients, since at this moment its aboveground part is not yet sufficiently developed to need an enhanced diet.

But feeding the root-own roses with nutrients after spring pruning is very useful, but the degree of feeding should strictly correspond to the size of the plant.

An overdose of nutrients, in particular an overdose of nitrogen, entails the risk of too large shoots. Perhaps such shoots will grow underdeveloped and become vulnerable to certain diseases. To overcome them, the plant will have to be cut additionally.

The effect of a nutrient deficiency is the formation of a small number of thin shoots with small flowers. Grow strong and healthy plants on a weak “foundation” is impossible. It is necessary to prune the shoots of rose bushes not in the right way, but in such a way that at least some healthy fresh growths appear on them, that is, everything is shorter and shorter.

How to properly prune roses: height, direction and length of the shoot

The next point that needs to be understood before correctly cutting roses is the optimum height, cutting direction and length of the shoot.

Roses are cut differently than other woody plants: shoots are not cut directly above the bud. Parts of the shoot, about 2-3 mm long, dry after trimming. If you cut off the shoot directly along the bud, the sprouts will not appear at all or will be unviable. Waiting for something strong and healthy to grow here is pointless.

The cut-off point should be no higher than 5 mm from the kidney. More distance is not profitable, since the shoot will shrivel badly, spoil the look of the plant and weaken its immune system.

It is necessary to cut in the direction of the kidney and tilted.

Sometimes it is difficult to find a kidney on lignified tissue. They are almost impossible to see. Sometimes it makes sense to look for a place on the stem where the leaf base once was - it looks like a dark oblique scar. The kidney is located directly above this place. If necessary, roses are cut additionally, after the buds germinate.

The next relationship concerns the intensity of pruning and the length of the shoot after it. If you cut it shorter and leave few buds on the shoot, of them, respectively, less fresh long shoots will grow. If you cut less, many short, fresh shoots will grow as a result. Using knowledge consciously, it is possible to balance the development of varieties with different growth rates. But to achieve a full balance here will not work.

You can grow a small number of roses on long stems or a lot of flowers on short stems. Pruning also allows you to balance the growth of shoots, the rate of development of which is not the same, that is, you can stimulate or slow down their growth. Moreover, pruning helps to maintain or limit the development of a particular variety.

A tool for pruning roses in the garden

A quality tool is important for both the plant and the gardener. Those who have already had to cut powerful stems, know how hard it can be, and understand the value of a good tool.

The applied force, tool comfort and strain on the tendons are the main criteria for choosing a tool. The first calluses on the hands will make you think about whether an expensive pruner is not the best option in the long run.

Young softwood lumbery shoots are load sensitive, and their tree cover is relatively thin at first.

Later, the volume of the core decreases, and the shoots themselves become more massive, especially in bush и frizzy roses. Such woody shoots are much harder, and cut them off without much effort will not work.

In any case, it is important to use a sharp and well-adjusted instrument. A blunt pruner cuts inaccurately and hurts the plant.

In extreme cases, he tears the bark. The gap between the pruning blades leads to the fact that the tool can jam, and the cut will turn out to be of poor quality. It turns out that the forces are spent inefficiently, and, moreover, under such conditions, the cutting part of the tool can simply break, unable to withstand the load. Naturally, first of all it concerns cheap tools.

High-quality tool sharpening is very important for perfect cutting of plants. When re-sharpening, the blade should be sharpened on one side only - so much of the tools entering the market today are sharpened. A good pruner can always be recognized by the quality of sharpening. Its blades remain sharp for a long period of use.

Regular pruner is not suitable for cutting massive perennial shoots. Here it is better to use garden shears for pruning or a hacksaw. However, the usual handsaw is also hardly suitable for pruning closely located shoots. This will help a small folding saw. It lies comfortably in the hand and cuts well.

Spring pruning of roses of different groups

In the spring, roses sprout the strongest sprouts. The gardener's task is to create conditions for lush flowering. Cut off all the shoots that look suspicious, that is, those that may cause illness or attract pests. Shrubs should not look too massive, but slim and elegant. In other words, their appearance should bring joy. That's what you grow them for.

Of course, roses bloom without spring pruning. True, they look at the same time as a wild rose, for which no one really cares. If roses are not cut, many varieties of roses grow higher, but they do not have dense foliage at the bottom, and this looks a bit poorly. Without pruning, you will also have to forget about the recovery of the plant, as fresh shoots from the ground will not appear.

Tips for pruning can be found in each rose care instructions, sometimes they are so varied and complex. It would be good not to forget that nature does not ask our opinion about which rose should survive the winter frosts, and which should not, which should be frozen more strongly, and which should not be touched at all. It is clear that the benefits of too detailed instructions are few. Understanding of cause-effect relationships and accumulation of one’s own experience brings much more tangible benefits.

The following section of the article presents tips on pruning roses in the spring for novice gardeners.

Pruning roses in spring for beginners (with video)

Winter is over, frost is no longer foreseen. It's time to work in the garden. When you first look at the pink bushes that need to be cut, something like confusion arises. After all, how can you calmly look at this terrible web of a multitude of interlaced shoots studded with spikes? This is an absolute chaos in which it is impossible to restore order. Nevertheless, a systematic approach to restoring order helps to cope with a task that at first glance seems intractable.

No matter which sort you are dealing with, the first steps in pruning are almost always the same. In winter, the plant dies partially. This may be shoots and even whole shoots. There are several reasons for this: for example, frost, wounds, or the consequences of parasite activity. Such shoots must be removed first. Dead shoots on the vaccination site must be cut completely and cleaned. However, most shoots die off partially.

This means that you need to cut to a healthy tissue. Dead tissue is sometimes difficult to recognize immediately. Therefore, first, the shoot must be cut to the green bark. But in most cases this is not enough.

The next step is to examine the core. If it is greenish white, the cut point is selected correctly. If it is brownish, you will have to trim more.

After a harsh winter with late frosts and intermediate warm periods, it is difficult to detect all the problems of a plant by a quick inspection. Later, during pruning, damaged shoots may seem quite healthy, but in fact it is not so - these shoots will soon die out. After some time, they will need to be cut again.

It is possible that you will find the remains of the shoots cut last year. Such shoots either have no buds at all, or they are so unsuccessfully located on them that the plant simply does not have enough strength to plant healthy shoots. Dried remnants of the shoots not only spoil the appearance of the rose, but also lure diseases and pests. They should be cut to the next nearest branch point.

Without a pruner can not do with the disease or damage by pests. If you find stems without a core, then know: this is the work of the descending palillus rosan.

Help here can only trim the escape to healthy tissue. The same goes for bark cancer. If you do not cut it in time, the disease "surrounds" the escape, and all living things on it will die.

As early as February, bright yellow rust spores can often be seen on rose stalks, with certain varieties suffering from it more than others. Do not delay the time and immediately cut off all diseased shoots to prevent the spread of spores. The result is healthy roses and much less work on plant protection in the summer.

The next step is to remove all the shoots that grow inside the bush, intersect and interfere with each other. In conclusion, it is necessary to cut the weak shoots, in which fresh growth will not appear.

Old shoots that no longer flourish need to be cut to the ground or to a fresh, healthy shoot below growing outward. As soon as the shoot grows older and becomes thicker, the wound surface will need to be treated with a special tool.

Shoots at the site of vaccination, growing from the rootstock, which were not cut off last year, must be removed completely.

That's all. Crop is complete. Rose bush again looks slim and neat.

And now watch the video of the correct pruning of roses in spring:

How to cut roses in the spring for rejuvenation (with photo)

Often you have to see roses, for which for many years no one has cared. They look like impassable wild bushes. The first reaction at the sight of such a “beauty” is the desire to dig up a plant and remove it from sight. Many believe that old plants are hopeless, and care behind them, that is, health pruning, - a waste of time. If the gardener believes that such a rose has a chance to bloom and please the surrounding beauty, he decides on the improvement of the plant. In addition, it can be a rare variety that costs big money or is no longer for sale at all.

There are no rules that state that roses should be dug out and replaced by others after they reach a certain age. If roses grow in an optimal place, they retain their beauty and health over the years. Thus, an attempt to bring a neglected rose into a blossoming state makes sense.

How to cut the old roses in the spring to rejuvenate the bushes? It is necessary to begin with the same steps as during spring pruning. First, remove the dead, sick, damaged branches. If you find fresh shoots near the ground, use them to form a plant again.

Other shoots that may often hurt, cut short or remove completely using a hacksaw. Since all varieties are different, they should be cut in the spring as much as your experience suggests. Ideally shoots hybrid tea и climbing roses shortened to 20 cm, shoots of climbing and shrub roses are left longer.

On old branches it is very difficult to look for axillary buds. Cut just to the eye here will not work. Sleeping buds on old branches in any case. They wake up after pruning and sprout. Of course, in comparison with young branches, sprouts on old ones appear much later.

These photos show how to cut roses in spring:

How to cut roses in the summer after the first flowering (with video)

After the first main flowering, the roses either do not bloom at all, or they bloom rather poorly. Most varieties re-bloom around the end of August - mid-September, but only after fresh growth has grown for the second time in a year. Re-flowering is usually luxurious. Depending on the variety, some roses have petals at the end of this period, while others, on the contrary, old flowers remain on the bush for a long time.

The petals of some terry roses have a tendency to stick together, especially in rainy, wet weather, which looks very unimportant, especially in comparison with the former beauty.

Before you properly cut the roses after the first flowering in the summer, make sure exactly which variety grows on your site. There are varieties, the flowers or stems of which quickly dry out and break off, and there are also those on which a variety of fruits grow. They are also called "false fruit." They can be a wonderful decoration of the autumn garden, if their color becomes brighter by this time. They also look wonderful in a vase.

First of all, this applies to many varieties of spray roses. Depending on taste, one person prefers a garden adorned with fruits, while another wants to see many flowers. Science argues that the fruits must be removed for a stronger flowering, as they cost the plant considerable forces.

Roses with fruits:

Climbing rose grade "Bonica 82"The color is pale pink.

Climbing rose grade "La sevillana"Color from orange to purple.

Climbing rose grade "Marchenland" pink colour.

Climbing rose grade "MasqueradeThe color is yellow, closer to autumn is red.

Curly rose grade "New dawn" pink colour.

Shrub rose grade "Scharlachglut"A purple color with a yellow eye.

Climbing rose grade "The queen elisabeth rose" pink colour.

Watch the video on how to cut roses in summer after flowering in order to correctly perform all the tricks:

Summer pruning roses for re-flowering

From the summer pruning of roses depends on re-bloom. The eyes at the top of the shoot sprout faster than those located at the base. Thus, a shorter crop will bloom later than the one that was cut too short.

In addition, the thickness of the foliage that the rose needs for assimilation, that is, for food due to photosynthesis, does not suffer from light pruning. Also, you have to break off the stalk, which holds the flower.

If you look at it more closely, you can see that the upper kidneys (one or two) are very weakly developed. They are located in the axils of the leaves, which have not yet been fully formed and have not acquired all the feathery leaves.

These undeveloped buds are not able to give fast-growing and strong fresh growth and thus guarantee flowering. Therefore, along with the flower or inflorescence, you must also remove part of the shoot. The remaining top sheet must be fully formed. In hybrid tea and climbing roses, the leaf should consist of five feathery leaves. After the first flowering, the shoot must be cut above the bud, which is located in the sinus of the formed leaf.

And how to properly cut the rose in the summer to see the second bloom quickly? This will have to stimulate the growth of new shoots, that is, cut off. We already know that foliage is needed for photosynthesis, but at the same time the leaves produce inhibitors that inhibit the premature development of the kidneys in the leaf sinuses.

Naturally, the imminent flowering under the influence of inhibitors should not be expected. In order not to wait until they are neutralized in a natural way, the following can be done: just tear off the entire sheet at its base. Thus, the effect of inhibitors coming from the leaf will stop, and the kidney will begin to develop faster.

Most roses are grafted to the root neck of the stock. Depending on the type, variety and place of planting on the stock, shoots constantly appear. If these shoots are not noticed or removed, they grow and suppress the grafted variety. Root growth can completely suppress the graft.

It may even happen that one day you will go out into the garden and instead of a rose you will find a rosehip bush there!

As a rule, root shoots are easy to detect. It grows more intensively grafted varieties and differs from it in the color of foliage and shoots. Root growth in most cases has a lighter color. Its leaves are smaller in size than tea hybrid leaves or climbing roses, and, moreover, they consist of a larger number of feathery leaves, from seven to nine. In some bush and climbing roses, in particular, once flowering, the difference is more difficult to detect, so you need to look more closely.

The varieties of these groups often have leaves that are very similar in size and number of feathery leaves to the leaves of the rootstock variety.

Shoots that grow from the rootstock should be regularly removed. The sooner, the better! When they are still small, they are very easy to tear off. After removal, the place of formation should be cleaned cleaned. In most cases, the root shoots break out of the ground, from the root. Dig up the place where the overgrowth was formed and completely remove the root shoot.

If you cut off the root growth only on the surface of the soil, then for some time it will not be visible, but its underground part will grow intensively, and then a fresh shoot will grow from it, and with two or three additional ones! Removing it will be much harder.

Please note that of rose roses graft is a crown. Everything that grows in the root zone and on the shtamba belongs to the stock and is to be removed. Small shoots on the shtambe are easily removed by hand, thicker shoots cut cleaned with a knife or shears.

Usually, nurseries practice pinching of roses with only one shoot in the place of vaccination. Pinching means shortening the top of the shoot to 3-5 of the kidneys. While the shoots are not woody, you can pluck them with your fingers. The softer the shoot, the sooner his reaction to this intervention will follow: he can even sprout some fresh shoots from the remaining buds. Thus, the roses branch more intensively, and this is a reliable foundation for a good plant shape.

This method of provoking branching can also be applied later, if after planting, the shoots on several shoots will develop unevenly.

The reason for this may lie in the fact that strong shoots inhibit the development of the weak. In order not to harm the morphology of the plant, it is necessary to shorten the strong shoots and be patient, because this measure postpones the moment of the first flowering for several weeks.

Expectation, however, pays off handsomely! After that, the plant will delight you with wonderful flowers for several years. Sometimes it becomes annoying because almost all roses bloom almost at the same time, and the flowering periods themselves are bright, but, alas, short.

Some varieties of rose hips and some related varieties of roses sometimes bloom already a few weeks before this period, and a number of other varieties a little later. After a period of “flower fireworks,” which, depending on the weather, may be longer or shorter, the flowering pomp becomes poorer. And only at the end of the summer young shoots bloom in all their glory. Roses bloom in the interval between these two periods, but not so brightly and massively.

It happens that the time of any exhibition of small gardening or amateur gardeners, a birthday or other important occasion for celebration does not coincide with the flowering period. At the same time the place of the festival should be buried in a sea of ​​blooming roses!

In the greenhouse, roses can be grown so that they bloom at a specific time because the “weather” is adjustable.

But to control the frost and heat, humidity and dryness outside the greenhouse is impossible. However, a significant impact on the development of plants can be pruned.

In a private garden, you can use the following trick: using pruning to decisively affect the flowering time of a rose.

If you cut the roses in the summer as described above, you can expect lush flowering in six weeks.

Early varieties after pruning also bloom prematurely. A flowering of late varieties with a different biological rhythm has to wait longer. If you remove the tops of soft shoots that have not yet formed completely, you can reduce the waiting time for flowering to four or five weeks.

If the escape is already woody, and you cut it shorter, then the flowers will appear on it later.

If you have enough time in stock, you can plant a trial plant, care for it properly and learn how to influence the period of flowering. Just gain experience and learn the technique of "regulation" of flowering.

Pruning roses in the summer to protect plants

Strange, but if it comes to diseases and pests, immediately a dispute arises about what remedies to use and whether to use them at all. In this case, as a rule, two aspects are not taken into account:

  • Often we ourselves carry diseases from one place to another, working as a dirty shear or hacksaw.
  • Many defects can be prevented without much difficulty, by a slight trimming of the plant. In addition, pruning can help avoid disease.

When pruning sick shoots, it is not always clear whether we have reached healthy tissue or not? Often it is necessary to cut again, several times.

Pathogens that are on the bark or in the juice, stick to the tool and go to other shoots and plants. In the worst case, the pruner serves not to combat the disease, but to spread it.

To destroy pathogens of the disease, for example, spores of fungi, it is possible with the help of a disinfectant. This precaution is an essential component of gardening. The rule that, alas, is often neglected.

The affected shoots, and no matter what - rust, spotting or pink sawfly - it is necessary to cut to a healthy tissue. If rust spores on the shoots can be found only in the spring (remember their bright, bright yellow color), then the spotting of the bark and rosy sawfly usually affect the roses during the growing season. Shoots affected by spotting should be removed in a timely manner, until the disease “ringed” the shoot, and its part above the “ring” is still alive. It is necessary to react immediately after the detection of infection.

Rose sawn can be defeated by the systematic use of special chemical agents, but no chemistry will save the already “drilled” shoots. To protect the plant, only cutting the rose in summer to healthy tissue will help.

Timely pruning as a measure against other diseases or parasites makes much more sense than useless attempts to overcome them later.

For example, this also applies to powdery mildew and gray mold. With the strongest defeat of the rose with powdery mildew, pruning of the tips of the shoots is more effective than treating the infected parts with chemical means.

Flowers affected by gray mold, not only look ugly, but also are sources of infections and diseases. They also need to be removed.

In no case do not throw the pruned diseased shoots in the compost and even more so do not leave them lying on the beds. They must be destroyed to prevent the spread of infection.

What to do with blind shoots?

Remontny varieties steadily let the shoots without flowers and inflorescences. Shoots without flowers are called blind. There are many reasons for this: broken top, damage by insects, bad weather effects, late frosts, lack of sunlight in the shade of large trees, lack of nutrients and much more. Sometimes a blind flower bud can be noticed in advance. At first it turns yellow and then dies. Some people think that the buds on such shoots do not appear at all.

But flower buds appear long before the shoot fully grows in length. Flower buds are formed on fresh sprouts, the length of which does not exceed a few millimeters, that is, it is already then possible to determine whether the shoot will bloom or not.

In addition, you never know what can happen before the kidney opens? In a few weeks, anything can happen that causes a kidney to die.

For a long time, as a rule, before adventitious buds sprout healthy sprouts, blind shoots are at rest. In order not to wait for flowering for too long, you need to shorten blind shoots immediately after detection. Cut off the blind shoots should be the same as flowering.

In the final section of the article you will find out whether it is necessary to cut roses in the fall for the winter and whether there are good reasons to refuse this procedure.

Should I cut the roses in the area in the fall for the winter?

As a matter of fact, it is better not to touch roses in autumn.

Many "correct" amateur gardeners cannot resist restoring order in the autumn garden. Long shoots get underfoot, interfere. In the spring, they still have to be cut, what to expect?

In addition, it is damp and cold in autumn, and everyone wants to make it faster. However, if in the spring it turns out that the roses are damaged, and why it is unclear, you should know: the autumn pruning is to blame for everything!

Selection roses do not know what a rest period is, unlike, for example, from deciduous trees.

In well-organized conditions, roses grow and bloom all year round. Therefore, it is often the case that some garden roses have to be cut for Christmas. The growth process is suspended only after the onset of cold weather. By the way, the necessary resistance of the plant to frost also begins to develop only at sub-zero temperatures.

If you still doubt whether it is necessary to cut the roses in the garden plot for the winter, then the following are good reasons for refusing the autumn procedure.

If the rose bush is cut in the fall, the same thing happens with the plant after spring or summer pruning: the buds are activated, even if it cannot be seen. In the worst case, if the autumn is warm, the buds can sprout.

It is worth remembering that roses wake up at the minimum positive temperature. And winter frosts, sometimes without snow, are dangerous for an unprepared and not solidified plant. Because of this, the rose may die, even if the winter is relatively mild.

If a rose tolerates winter, it does not mean that the risks of autumn pruning are no longer terrible for it. Rose - a plant that wakes up from winter sleep one of the first and sprouts buds on the tips of the shoots.

Belated frosts during this period are fatal for the plant.

If the rose bush, which was not cut in the fall, will sprout, then late frost is a far less dangerous for him, since these shoots will have to be cut off in the spring anyway. Therefore, in the fall, a bush can only be trimmed, especially if the “disorder” prevents you from sleeping well.

Deciding whether to cut the roses in the fall or not is of little importance. In any case, you only need to remove soft, immature shoots. They, by the way, can bloom. Flowers with frost look as if they were covered with icing. Wonderful decoration of the autumn garden, which is difficult not to notice.

A bit different situation with standard roses. Before bending the standard rose to the ground, all soft, undisturbed parts of the shoots, the remaining flower buds and the base of the fruit must be removed from the bush in order to prevent the plant from rotting in winter.

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