Keeping of

Trimming and shaping crowns of shrubs - the necessary agrotechnical measures that must necessarily be carried out in any garden. Each plant has its own characteristics that can not be ignored when you make a crown. The formation of ornamental shrubs is aimed at giving them an aesthetic appearance. And the purpose of pruning fruit bushes is to increase the yield.

In addition to the main work associated with the cultivation of shrubs (fertilizer, watering, digging the soil, mulching, treatment), the success of their cultivation largely depends on the timely and proper pruning and shaping.

They are the most effective ways to regulate the growth, development and flowering of shrub plants. In addition, using trimming you can give the plant the desired shape, adjust the height and width of shrubs.

How and when pruning shrubs in springIn summer and autumn, you will find out in this article.

Forming and pruning when growing garden shrubs

Usually the gardener himself determines whether he likes the look of the plant or not, hence the need for pruning. It is not difficult for a person, even a little knowledgeable plant, to identify defects that need to be eliminated: damaged by severe frost, freezing rain, or simply broken branches, dry and rubbing shoots, rotting branches, bulging branches, especially on clipped hedges.

Sanitary pruning when growing shrubs (removal of broken and damaged branches) can be carried out at any time. In other cases, it should be borne in mind that plants such as forsythia, moth, honeysuckle, some types of spiraeus, lilac and others, lay buds on last year's shoots, and bloom in early spring or early summer.

They should be cut only after flowering. And plants such as privet, Rose, hydrangea, buddleya David, snowberry and others, blooming in summer and autumn, pruned in early spring.

Different types of plants react differently to pruning, because the shape of the crown of the shrub, which can be either pyramidal or spherical or creeping, etc., is of great importance. For example, Hungarian lilac, cotoneaster, honeysuckle after low pruning new shoots arise along the entire length of the branches, and in rhododendrons and yellow roses, low pruning causes the death of entire branches and even the entire bush, since these plants do not have budding property on the lower old branches.

When growing shrubs in the nursery in the first years of their life is forming. Later, after their landing in a permanent place, sanitary, formative and rejuvenating pruning begin. When pruning shrubs, plant growth is usually weakened or enhanced, flowering and fruiting are accelerated or slowed down, the desired crown shape is improved or created.

The degree of pruning is very different: from the removal of wilted flowers in lilacs or roses to pruning of large skeletal branches of fruit crops, as well as the rejuvenating pruning of old shrubs. It should be remembered that pruning for plants is the same surgical operation, and before proceeding with it, the gardener must know for sure if it is needed and what he wants to achieve with this operation.

Many shrubs usually undergo low pruning in the second year after planting, at a height of 5-7 cm from the root collar. Such pruning contributes to increased bushiness of plants.

This is especially important for breeds such as honeysuckle, lilac, hawthorn, buckthorn, hazel, predisposed to develop a central escape at the expense of lateral. In the same time barberry, spirea, cotoneaster, bloodroot Well bush and without pruning. But, if you want to get a particularly lush copy or give it some original form, pruning berry and ornamental shrubs should be done in the spring, before bud break.

Principles and terms of pruning vines and hedges

General principles and terms of pruning vines are approximately the same as for shrub plants. Creepers that bloom on last year's growth are pruned immediately after flowering, and at the same time weak and thickening shoots and, first of all, faded branches are removed.

All species that bloom on the shoots of the current year, for example, honeysuckle, clematis, pruned in early spring. This allows the plant to form a large number of young flowering shoots. Deciduous vines grown for beautiful leaves and shoots, and especially leaves with a rich autumn color, for example, girlish grapes, should be cut only in late autumn, in October-November.

If evergreen creepers, they should be cut in early spring. The lianas used for vertical gardening of arbors, sheds, walls need pruning in spring, in late March - early April.

Hedges serve both for differentiation of sites, and for their decoration. For the device of a high wall along the fence most suitable hawthorn, sea buckthorn, turf, viburnum, tall hips, etc. For hedges of medium height, spirea (oak, middle, Wangutta) currants, cotoneaster, privet, honeysuckle, Chubushnik, barberry.

For low borders, height 1-1,2 m, it is best to use the Spureyu Bomald, Thunberg barberry, holonia hollywood, Japanese quince, privet, purple willow, holly ordinary, etc.

Recently gardeners most often plant and form living fences of a strict geometric shape, mostly rectangular or tapering slightly. With such a formation, the fence will be more slowly exposed, since it receives a maximum of light, air and water in the form of precipitation. This fence reliably closes the area from prying eyes, protects it from the wind, and also gives the site the most well-groomed appearance.

In the early years of crown formation, it is important to achieve good branching along the entire height of the plant being formed. It is best to do pruning shrubs in late autumn (October-November) and in early spring (March-April). When creating hedges of deciduous shrubs cut them very low, leaving up to 10 see the growth of the current year. The following year, the resulting shoots are shortened again and do so to the projected size of the fence.

Necessary tool for trimming and forming crown shrubs

To form and trim ornamental shrubs, you must have the appropriate tool and know the rules for using it. The quality of inventory is also of great importance for work.

The necessary tools for trimming ornamental shrubs are various types of pruners, delimbers, garden shears, garden saws, garden knives, as well as an electric saw for trimming shrubs.

Auxiliary devices include garden ladders, putties and gloves for work. Most gardeners use pruners. It is indispensable for shortening shoots, cutting branches, thickening the crown. The diameter of the branches trimmed with shears should not exceed 1-2.

In shops for gardeners you can buy pruners with long handles suitable for cutting branches up to 3-4 thick. See To cut high-lying branches, use rod or pole loppers that are driven by a rope. The blades of such delimbers should be well ground.

Garden tools must meet the following requirements:

  • Have comfortable handles and be sharp
  • Be as easy and safe as possible.
  • To withstand heavy loads, especially when cutting old, thick shoots

The following describes the rules for pruning fruit bushes on the plot.

Features of molding trimming fruit bushes (with video)

Aronia - Aronia

Immediately after planting, the plant is pruned, leaving hemp on 15-20 cm above the soil. In the future, the formation will consist in the fact that the bush consists of shoots of different ages. In adult bushes, 15-20 of such branches are left.

Aronia is a light-loving plant, therefore, to ensure uniform illumination of the bush, young growths should be periodically removed. When the bushes reach the 14-15 age, they should be rejuvenated.

Especially beautiful is this shrub with standard molding pruning, when it turns into a small beautiful tree. At a young age, it is recommended that the stem plant be tied to a stake.

Hawthorn - Crataegus

To create a hedge in the first year after planting, it is necessary to trim the bush strongly, leaving hemp no higher than 10-15 cm from the soil level. Such pruning is done in April, it contributes to the formation of powerful basal shoots.

In the second year, at the same time, to create a strong skeleton, deep pruning of the fruit shrub is again carried out, which ensures the emergence of new shoots and the enhanced growth of last year. If the fence is not thick enough, such a strong pruning is carried out in the third year.

Gooseberry - Grossularia

The main goal of gooseberry formation is the cultivation of a shrub that has well-developed, healthy uneven shoots. The adult gooseberry bush should have 20-25 well-developed skeletal branches of different ages. Gooseberries begin to form from the moment they are planted in a permanent place. In early spring, pruned shrubs are pruned, leaving well developed buds above the 2-4 soil surface, all weak branches are removed.

The following year of these shoots leave the most powerful and vital: 3-5 zero shoots. Immature or damaged ends trimmed to healthy wood. All newly emerging shoots, excess, weak and lying on the ground shoots are removed.

Pruning is best done in spring or autumn, after leaf fall. Gooseberry as it gets older it is imperative to carry out anti-aging pruning. It is advisable to cut out old shoots every 2-3 of the year.

Hazel - Corylus

The above-ground part of the hazel is cut to 20-25 cm from the soil level. Formation occurs due to shoots that occur on skeletal roots in the form of root offsprings. In the future, pruning is reduced to the removal of root offspring, as well as shoots appearing on the trunks below the root collar. Sprouts must be removed annually. From the beginning of the introduction of hazel into fruiting, usually from 6 to 12 of the main strong trunks remain.

On properly formed bushes, further pruning is reduced to the annual removal of all young shoots, dry and mechanically damaged trunks. Also, the intersecting or closely growing branches inside the crown are removed. With a gradual rejuvenation, remove some of the old shoots.

At the same time 2-3 old unproductive shoots are removed annually, and new ones are reproduced instead. Thus, for several years, there is a complete rejuvenation of plants. Pruning and rejuvenation of hazel in conditions of central Russia can be done in late autumn or in early spring (March).

Blueberry - Vaccinium

In young plants, small increments that have formed at the base of the bush and shoots lying on the ground are pruned. Beginning with 3-4, the brightening pruning is carried out, while dry, diseased and damaged branches are cut out. Then remove the old shoots that do not give strong gains, and thin, which greatly thicken the center of the crown of the bush.

Form a bush with 6-8 basic branches. Later, the oldest shoots are cut at the base of the bush or at a height of 20-30 cm, keeping no more than 2-3 branches at the age of 3-4 on the bush.

If more 6-8 shoots grow, then the extra shoots will also be deleted, first of all, weed and weak. Pruning of these berry bushes is carried out in early spring, usually in March - early April, before the start of sap flow.

Raspberries - Rubus

Raspberries are formed in the form of individual bushes or a trellis width 0,4-0,5 m. Saplings after planting at a permanent place is cut on 3-5 buds. The following year, stems 1,2-1,5 m in height grow from the buds left. Fruit buds are in the leaf axils. In spring, when pruning this fruit and berry shrub, the shoots that grew in the previous year are slightly shortened, usually removing the underexposed tip, which contributes to the emergence of new fruit buds.

In the following years, all the breenial shoots were removed after the berries were picked, cutting them to the base of the soil. Thus, there is an annual replacement of seed-bearing shoots with new ones.

Usually on 1 m, trellis leaves are left for fruiting next year 10-12 stems or for bush growing - 4-6 shoots per bush. In the conditions of the middle band at the end of September, young shoots should be bent to the ground, pinned with pegs and later be loosened with snow.

Almond - Amygdalus

When forming barbs in the first year after planting pruning should be minimal. They shorten shoots with only 2,5-5 cm.

They also remove incorrectly located, dried and diseased branches. Do the same pruning in the second year. In March or April, last year's growth is severely cut off.

In the future, every year in spring, after the threat of low temperatures has passed, the frost-damaged tops of the shoots are cut off. At the same time remove weak, non-viable and improperly located shoots.

Red currant

Red currant, unlike black, is easier to form, every year it gives less young shoots of substitution, and fruit-bearing branches are more durable - can serve 7-8 and even 10 years. Initially, the shoots of seedlings are shortened, leaving 2-3 strong, healthy buds on them. Each year, 2-3 leaves the most well-developed shoot of the formed root shoots, and the rest are removed.

Such shaping should be done during 3-4 years, and by the end of 4, there should be at least 12-16 well-developed skeletal branches on the bush. Usually at the ends of annual shoots many fruit-bearing twigs are formed, therefore it is not recommended to shorten annual gains, this will lead to yield loss.

In the fall or spring, pruning of these fruit bushes is done annually and the aging, broken and diseased branches are removed. Thus, the main crop of red, pink and white currants ripens on 2-3-summer branches. Currant gives a large number of basal shoots. Leave one year to replace no more than 3-5. Branched branches should be cut off near the ground, leaving no stumps.

See how to trim fruit bushes in this video:

The formation of currant trellis

Plants are planted along the trellis at a distance 1 m from each other. To the columns with height 1,5 m stretch the wire in three rows. Immediately after planting, the saplings are pruned, as in the normal shaping, leaving well-developed buds on the stumps of 2-3. By the end of the growing season, 3-4 or 5 leave the strongest zero shoots.

Shoots, evenly distributed on the trellis, tied to the first row of wire. Everything else is cut to the level of the soil. In the second year, 2-3 of zero red currant 'Natalie' escapes are also taken, and the rest are removed from the new growth, too long shoots are slightly shortened.

As the main shoots grow, they are tied to the next row of wire. In the future, when forming and pruning these shrubs, the aging shoots are cut and replaced with new ones. In the middle lane in the first years after planting, red currant and black currant bushes are being crushed with soil to protect them from freezing on 10-12.

Black currant - Ribes nigrum

The formation of black currant begin immediately after landing on the site. Seedlings immediately pruned, leaving normally developed buds on 2-4 shoots. New shoots are formed from these buds located at the base of the bush.

In the second year, 3-4 young strong escapes are left, and the rest are cut to the ground. In the third year, 2-3 new strengths are added to the existing shoots. Shaping the black currant bush is usually completed on 4-5 year.

By this time, the bush should have 12-15 strong skeletal branches of different ages, as well as a large number of fruit twigs that bear the harvest.

Usually they are short-lived, die off after the first or second fruiting. When forming and pruning it is very important that the currant bush is evenly developed and all branches have free access to light and air. Subsequently, the branches of the 4 age that had been hatched, as well as broken, damaged, or diseased branches, were cut out at the base.

We must remember that the young branches give larger berries and that the main branches of the black currant live for 5-6 for years, and then die. Pruning bushes in central Russia is best done in early spring, before bud breaks, in late autumn, after the leaf fall is over.

In spring pruning, shoots frozen in winter are simultaneously removed. In varieties of black currant, giving a lot of basal shoots and weak branching, it is recommended to shorten annual shoots on 1 / 3.

The following section of the article describes how to properly trim ornamental shrubs.

How to trim ornamental shrubs

Heather - Calluna

Evergreen shrubs, as a rule, need little pruning. The first 2-3 of the year after landing heather on a permanent place pruning do not hold. Carefully break the flowers off with their hands to prevent the seeds from setting.

In old plants, after the end of flowering, a part of the stems located below the flowering inflorescences is cut out with garden scissors, capturing damaged and diseased shoots. When pruning try to keep the shape of the bush.

Volcheyagodnik - Daphne

After planting in a permanent place in a sapling, it is necessary to remove all weak and intersecting branches, it is necessary to repeat this next year.

It is best to make such an arrangement in the fall (in November) or in the spring (in April). Volodyagodnik does not require special pruning, only annually after flowering sick and old branches are removed.

Girlish grapes - Parthenocissus

After planting in the summer, they choose the strongest shoots that are allowed on the prepared supports. In the second year, all weak shoots cut out on the ring. In the future, annual pruning is only to remove sick, broken and dry shoots.

To rejuvenate the age plant is simple: cut off all the shoots and scour the stump of a bush. You can spend a partial rejuvenation by removing weakly growing and old shoots, thereby giving the opportunity to grow more young, strong lateral branches.

Kerria - Kerrio

A feature of kerria is the growth and development of almost all new shoots from the level of the soil. Therefore, immediately after landing in a permanent place, in March-April, it is necessary to remove all weak, frost-damaged and thin young growths from her.

Nevertheless, strong shoots and side branches on them should not be removed, since it is on them that a large number of buds and flowers will appear in the same year. After flowering ends, in May - early June, when pruning this ornamental shrub, all faded branches are removed, but strong lateral young growths are preserved and carefully mulched.

This is done to accelerate the growth of basal shoots. In the second and subsequent years, all operations are repeated again in the spring.

Cotoneaster - Cotoneaster

The cotoneaster is formed at a young age just like lilac. The plant is grown primarily for the sake of beautiful fruits that are stored on the plant for most of the winter. Therefore, it is cut off on the basis of these features. In cotoneaster, the main increments are formed on the periphery of the crown.

If you do not carry out timely pruning, his shoots will become shallow, the bush will thicken, flowering and fruiting will sharply decline and move to the top of the crown. They cut at a cotoneaster all competing, weak, intersecting and growing inside the bush, as well as shoots appealing to the plant's appearance.

Pruning this garden shrubs is best done in March, before the start of sap flow. It should be remembered that when pruning, you should delete no more than 1 / 3 length of the annual increment. Old plants are easily rejuvenated. To do this, carry out a strong pruning, removing dried, sick, 1 damaged and old shoots. In the first year, new strong shoots grow from the buds below.

Clematis - Clematis

Many clematis, including the varieties of the Zhakman group, form flowers on the shoots of the current year, so the shaping and pruning should be done with particular care. In the first year after planting in the fall, the plant is pruned into two lower strong buds, mulched and left to hibernate.

In May-June of the next year it is necessary to choose young strong shoots and growths, formed from the root buds. In late autumn, after the first frosts, all the stems must be severely cut off, leaving two strong buds on each plant again, and then mulched to protect them from damage by low temperatures.

In May and June, all growing shoots are tied up, and in July clematis blooms. Pruning can help shift the time to bloom of clematis. If you want the early flowering variety to bloom later, it should be strongly cut at a later date, and, conversely, if you need earlier flowering, clematis should be cut off moderately, removing only the shoots with faded flowers.

It should be remembered that clematis, flowering on the shoots of last year, is necessary weak pruning, and Clematis, flowering on the shoots of the current year, need a strong (short) pruning, which should be carried out in late autumn or spring, before flowering. When forming clematis, it is necessary to leave more than 10-15 simultaneously flowering shoots on the adult vine.

When clematis freezes in spring, shoots must be cut to the first healthy buds. With the beginning of plant growth, and especially at the beginning of summer, it is necessary to regularly orient all growing shoots in the right direction and, if necessary, tie them to a support.

At the same time, thinning of thickening branches is required, which improves aeration and illumination of the plant.

Knyazhik - Atragene

Form princes identical to clematis. Blossoming vine on the growth of the past year. Therefore, cut the plants only after flowering. Remove faded shoots, weak, old and diseased stems. If the prince slows down or stops the growth of shoots, the stems become bare, the plant requires an urgent rejuvenation, which is carried out by shortening the stems with their transfer to the lateral rapidly growing shoots.

At the same time, thinning is performed by removing old and damaged shoots. Cut plants in the fall are mulched with peat or covered with spruce leaves, sawdust, dry leaves.

If the bushes of the prince thicken, they need to thin out, providing better illumination and maximum aeration. Knyazhik tolerates annual pruning. If for some reason it was not carried out, then the plant must be strongly cut, leaving a few old shoots. It should be remembered that regular pruning and garter of the prince contribute to the duration and continuity of its flowering.

Lemongrass - Schisandra

The formation of the crown of this shrub is usually made arbitrarily. Shoots that grow during the growing season to 2 m and more, are directed along the vertical supports. Lemongrass tolerates pruning. To regulate the growth of strong-growing shoots, it is necessary to periodically pinch, as a result of which the growth of pinned shoots is delayed and the growth of unattached growth is enhanced.

In addition, this technique prevents the thickening of the crown. Lemongrass gives a lot of root growth, which extends far from the mother bush, so it is unsuitable for the device of hedges.

In winter, the vine leaves can not be removed from the supports, as it is able to tolerate low temperatures as adults. Old branches of schisandra, older than seven years old, must be cut at the base, replacing them with new ones.

It is best to do this either in the fall, or at the end of May - the beginning of June, when the sick, old and damaged shoots are already clearly visible, and also by this time the lemongrass usually stops crying (juice flow).

If a magnolia vine has a large number of shoots for some reason, the plant needs a rejuvenating pruning. In this case, all these stems are cut to a stump, and the plant drives out new healthy replacement shoots.

Rhododendron - Rhododendron

To stimulate the flowering of rhododendrons, a particularly important technique is the removal of faded flowers. At a young age, such removal contributes to the formation of new shoots and branches; afterwards, the plant forms more growing buds after this operation; vegetation occurs faster in spring.

Pruning should be done to give the bush a certain form and remove old, damaged, dried and diseased branches. At the same time only separate branches are shortened. Strong pruning noticeably retards plant growth and first flowering.

If it became necessary to trim old and outdated bushes, it is best to do it at the end of April.

Chaenomeles - Chaenomeles

In the first or second year at the base of the bush several powerful basal branches are formed. In the future, every year at the base of the bush 3-4 leaves a well-developed shoot. Shoots that thicken the crown should be cut. Secondary shoots are formed from adjacent buds.

In late July - early August, the ends of the shoots are shortened on the 2-3 sheet. From the remaining buds next year, flowering fruiting branches will appear. Fully formed bushes must have 12-15 uneven twigs.

Flowers and the main crop of fruits are formed on 3-year-old branches. On 5-6-summer branches, the crop is reduced and the decorativeness of the plant is lost. Therefore, in order to maintain a healthy healthy growth, it is recommended to carry out anti-aging pruning in early spring, while cutting out old shoots, thickening the crown. Shrubs aged 15-17 years require rejuvenation. In this case, the plant is cut to a stump.

Dogrose - Rose

In the first year after planting, a dog rose is shaped like ordinary roses. All dog roses need shaping and pruning, but almost do not require pruning varieties r. wrinkled and p. barbed.

In the first year of cultivation in young plants, they carry out a strong pruning, which stimulates strong growth of basal shoots and the formation of a bush with shoots evenly spaced around the periphery of the crown. When pruning, slow-growing dog roses are pruned much stronger than vigorous.

Rosehips hive strongly, so after some time thinning of the bushes is necessary. To do this, almost all the old branches are cut to the level of the soil and re-form healthy strong shoots 5-6. At the end of flowering at wild rose shorten shoots. In tall bushes with bare branches cut each half of the length. In the middle lane, this is best done in April.

When to prune shrubs in spring, summer and autumn

To learn to trim the shrubs in spring, summer and autumn, check out the table below.

The table "Recommended terms for pruning and crown formation of shrubs":








Spring or autumn

In the spring, after

sap flow termination


In the spring

In the autumn, after


In the spring

Aged 13-15 years


Spring or autumn

Immediately after flowering

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March - the beginning of April

May, August


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In the spring


During the growing season

October is cut

on height 15-25 cm

and cover spruce branches

In the spring


In the spring

In the spring




Spring or autumn

Immediately after flowering




in 6-7 years,
in autumn



Spring shorten the stems.

In the autumn they remove the faded




During the growing season

Stalks are shortened in summer

after flowering

In the spring



In spring and summer

In early spring

(March, April)

(March, April)


April - November

In the summer, after flowering

In the spring



Spring and autumn

Spring leaves 6-12

shoots in the fall

cut off all

faded shoots


Once per 7-10 years

pruned to stump


In spring and summer

Autumn or early

spring is removed

extra shoots



sick and

damaged shoots

spring pruned to stump


In spring and summer

July is removed

all faded


Annually in april


The end of March - the beginning of April

In late March - early

april cut hard

Cut the shoots to

soil level in March


In the spring

In the summer after flowering


Through 13-15 years shoots

cut to soil level


In the spring

Autumn or spring


As aging

cut to soil level


In the spring

After flowering

March, April

March - the beginning of April


March, April

In late June - early July

remove faded shoots

In the spring

With aging, in spring


In the spring

In the spring remove all

competing shoots

Spring shoots are removed,

damaged in winter

With aging, in spring



Spring flowering species -

after flowering (July).

Summer blooming species

in late March

early April


With aging, in spring


March-April or

September October

Pet and autumn,

after flowering


When exposing branches and

the drying of stems in spring


In early spring

In the autumn, after

leaf fall

In the spring

As aging


In spring and summer

In the autumn


Through 6-10 years, in spring


Early spring or autumn

Removing extra



Spring removal


Early spring or autumn

In the autumn

in autumn

Branches older than 7 years

cut out in the fall

or rejuvenate

whole plant


In the spring

In the autumn, after


In the autumn

In the fall - anti-aging pruning

when thickened


In the spring

In the autumn

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Almond low


March, April

Annually in spring

remove damaged

shoot tips

Annually removed

thickening with growths

With aging, in spring

Sea buckthorn


In the spring

In the spring, before blooming

the kidneys.

In the spring remove the top

parts of shoots older than 7 years

Annually in spring

remove shoots


In spring and summer

In July

In July, shortened

old shoots

In early spring

every 5-7 years


In the spring

Remove bare

and extended shoots.

Flay off faded


April is cut

old shoots

As aging

whole bush in autumn


Spring, summer, autumn

In the summer, autumn, after flowering

The end of March - the middle


During the growing season

remove wild shoots

In the spring, after

end of frosts


In the spring

Remove the faded

inflorescences and

unproductive shoots

Annually at the beginning of summer

Currant black and red

In the spring and autumn

In early spring or autumn,

after leaf fall

Autumn is removed

weak and diseased shoots

In early spring

(black currant)


(spring flowering species)

In the spring

Cut out the old branches.

In the summer, after

end of flowering

Autumn is removed

weak and diseased shoots


(summer blooming species)

In the spring

In early spring

prune the whole bush

soil level.

Leave a few

developed kidney

Autumn is removed

weak and diseased shoots


In the spring

After flowering, remove

all aged shoots


As aging


Spring or autumn

Summer thinned

removing thickeners


In early spring


Spring or autumn

In the summer, after

end of flowering

During the whole year

Thin out

every 2-3 of the year


Spring, summer, autumn


During the

throughout the growing season

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Apple tree

(decorative species)

March, April

After frosting,

every spring

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